Shopping List:
Headboard/Footboard
1 – Sheet 3/4" Plywood, MDF
2 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – small moulding pieces 8 feet long
3/4” finish nails
1 1/4” pocket hole screws
Storage Bases
2 – Sheets ¾” plywood or MDF cut into strips 15 3/4" wide, referred to as 1x16 boards throughout this plan
2 – sheets ¼” plywood or other backerboard
4 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
3– 1x3 @ 8 feet long (for the slats – try and burn up small scraps here)
7 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long OR 1 sheet ¾” plywood cut into strips 5 1/2" wide, used as 1x6s for drawers. You could even use 5/8” thick material
4 – 1x8 @ 6 feet long
Optional drawer moulding
24 (or 12) – Drawer Knobs or handles
12 – 14” long drawer slides, the white euro style bottom corner mount ones will work best
1 1/4” and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
1 1/4” finish nails
CUT LIST
Headboard/Footboard
1– 3/4" plywood or MDF @ 60” x 25" (headboard)
1 - 3/4" plywood or MDF @ 60 x 23" (footboard)
2 – 1x3 @ 60”
2 – 1x2 @ 60"
2 – 2x3 @ 47 1/2”
2 – 2x3 @ 27 1/2"
2 – 1x3 @ 67”
8– Moulding pieces ... i will have to measure these
8 - Moulding pieces (again i need to measure these (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, not parallel to each other)
Storage Bases
4 – 1x16 @ 80”
8 – 1x16 @ 14 7/8”
2 – ¼” plywood @ 80” x 16 ¼”
4 – 2x4 @ 75"
4 – 2x4 @ 10”
2 – 2x2 @ 80"
14 – 1x3 or 1x2 scraps @ 7”
DRAWERS ( I need to double check the drawers
24 – 1x6 @ 14”
24 – 1x6 @ 21 ½” (I think I added a smidge to the length of the drawers Bu need to measure... I think I used 23 3/8")
12 – 1x8 @ 24 5/8” (Drawer Faces) measure and build to your exact drawers though
12 - ¼” plywood @ 23” x 14” (Drawer Bottoms). Again I think I added an inch or so... will need to measure to confirm)
This was the BIG summer project! The plan when moving my son to his own room (which happened to be the bonus room) was to eliminate the need for a dresser. Partly due to space and low ceilings. After much planning we decided on the Fillman storage Bed that Ana-White had posted. It was for a twin size bed. I calculated and measured and came up with a queen size based on those plans. I will update with my cut list and sizes if anyone is interested. For now here are the pictures! I did add 2 wooden knobs to each drawer (stained to match) Need to get an updated picture!
Headboard/Footboard
1 – Sheet 3/4" Plywood, MDF
2 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – small moulding pieces 8 feet long
3/4” finish nails
1 1/4” pocket hole screws
Storage Bases
2 – Sheets ¾” plywood or MDF cut into strips 15 3/4" wide, referred to as 1x16 boards throughout this plan
2 – sheets ¼” plywood or other backerboard
4 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
3– 1x3 @ 8 feet long (for the slats – try and burn up small scraps here)
7 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long OR 1 sheet ¾” plywood cut into strips 5 1/2" wide, used as 1x6s for drawers. You could even use 5/8” thick material
4 – 1x8 @ 6 feet long
Optional drawer moulding
24 (or 12) – Drawer Knobs or handles
12 – 14” long drawer slides, the white euro style bottom corner mount ones will work best
1 1/4” and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
1 1/4” finish nails
CUT LIST
Headboard/Footboard
1– 3/4" plywood or MDF @ 60” x 25" (headboard)
1 - 3/4" plywood or MDF @ 60 x 23" (footboard)
2 – 1x3 @ 60”
2 – 1x2 @ 60"
2 – 2x3 @ 47 1/2”
2 – 2x3 @ 27 1/2"
2 – 1x3 @ 67”
8– Moulding pieces ... i will have to measure these
8 - Moulding pieces (again i need to measure these (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, not parallel to each other)
Storage Bases
4 – 1x16 @ 80”
8 – 1x16 @ 14 7/8”
2 – ¼” plywood @ 80” x 16 ¼”
4 – 2x4 @ 75"
4 – 2x4 @ 10”
2 – 2x2 @ 80"
14 – 1x3 or 1x2 scraps @ 7”
DRAWERS ( I need to double check the drawers
24 – 1x6 @ 14”
24 – 1x6 @ 21 ½” (I think I added a smidge to the length of the drawers Bu need to measure... I think I used 23 3/8")
12 – 1x8 @ 24 5/8” (Drawer Faces) measure and build to your exact drawers though
12 - ¼” plywood @ 23” x 14” (Drawer Bottoms). Again I think I added an inch or so... will need to measure to confirm)
This was the BIG summer project! The plan when moving my son to his own room (which happened to be the bonus room) was to eliminate the need for a dresser. Partly due to space and low ceilings. After much planning we decided on the Fillman storage Bed that Ana-White had posted. It was for a twin size bed. I calculated and measured and came up with a queen size based on those plans. I will update with my cut list and sizes if anyone is interested. For now here are the pictures! I did add 2 wooden knobs to each drawer (stained to match) Need to get an updated picture!
 | ||
| Headboard and Footboard trimmed out |
Wow! That is impressive! How did you make the drawer fronts?
ReplyDeleteThanks Shannon, yes, I made them out of 1x8's with a routed edge. I made complete drawer boxes and then mounted the drawer fronts on. I have added knobs too.
DeleteWow this is so beautiful!!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much
DeleteWow, this is awesome! I would have never thought to make the bed that way. Very cool.
ReplyDeleteThis is amazing and exactly what I am looking to make, an updated cut list would be amazing.
ReplyDeleteI am adding it now! Sorry for the delay I lost my notes until just a few days ago
DeleteIt is great. I am looking to do the same to my son's bed. Is there a cut list?
ReplyDeleteHi, I am updating with the cut list now
DeleteHello- First and foremost, I love this bed and you did a great job!! Now, on to business! lol Have you confirmed your measurements? I know you mentioned a couple of times that you needed to confirm, I would like to start building but I want to make sure I have the right dimensions. Also, you mentioned you spent $200 on lumber. If you don't mind me asking, how on earth did you do that?!?!?!? We went today to price all of the wood and for wood and drawer slides only it was 453 (at Home Depot). That didn't include any hardware, screws, nails, molding or stain. If you have any insight you can provide, I'd gratefully appreciate it! Thanks for fun project, I'm looking forward to it!
ReplyDeleteHi,
DeleteAll the measurements should be correct :-) the drawer bottoms and mouldings I have not gone back to verify, but I highly suggest you build the drawers to your storage boxes once you have them built and cut your drawer bottoms to the boxes you build to ensure a good fit. Drawers are tricky and may be off a hair... I adjusted and shimmied where needed on those. Prices of wood may vary for where you live. There are also varying types of 3/4" plywood. I used birch which I paid around $30-$35 a sheet for. But if I had to do it again I would have used pine 3/4" plywood. They make a smooth finish one which would have worked just fine for staining and would have been cheaper. I bought my drawer slides at a local lumber yard because my Lowes did not even carry the 14" euro slides. I paid right around $5 for each set of those. I did also buy I think 1x8's or 1x10's maybe 1 x 12's. And I ripped those down for my 1x2's and 1x3's... just compare prices and add up the lengths to figure if it may save you some $$$, but your biggest cost on the lumber would be the 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood. What was your cost on the 3/4" sheets? The headboard and footboard come together very quickly! Are you building a queen size as well?
I am making the queen as well!
DeleteThanks for the great tips, especially about ripping the larger pieces to create the 1x2s/1x3s. That's where a lot of the extra costs came in because they had cheap 1x2s but not 1x3s. They were outrageously overpriced. The cost of the 3/4" plywood was $34. We also looked at the birch. Now when we go back when can look at the other you recommended. As you were saying, the wood is going to vary from location to location, so I'll see what we have. Another thing I think we may have over priced was certain types of wood. For the drawer fronts, as well as the base fronts and trim, we were looking at furniture grade. Obviously that's way more expensive. Did you use furniture grade on anything or just buy decent wood with nice grain?
Thank you again for your input, it's very much appreciated!
Sarah
Hi,
ReplyDeleteAll the measurements should be correct :-) the drawer bottoms and mouldings I have not gone back to verify, but I highly suggest you build the drawers to your storage boxes once you have them built and cut your drawer bottoms to the boxes you build to ensure a good fit. Drawers are tricky and may be off a hair... I adjusted and shimmied where needed on those. Prices of wood may vary for where you live. There are also varying types of 3/4" plywood. I used birch which I paid around $30-$35 a sheet for. But if I had to do it again I would have used pine 3/4" plywood. They make a smooth finish one which would have worked just fine for staining and would have been cheaper. I bought my drawer slides at a local lumber yard because my Lowes did not even carry the 14" euro slides. I paid right around $5 for each set of those. I did also buy I think 1x8's or 1x10's maybe 1 x 12's. And I ripped those down for my 1x2's and 1x3's... just compare prices and add up the lengths to figure if it may save you some $$$, but your biggest cost on the lumber would be the 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood. What was your cost on the 3/4" sheets? The headboard and footboard come together very quickly! Are you building a queen size as well?
Very nice and beautiful!
ReplyDeleteThis is beautiful. Did you use a box spring under the mattress? If not, did you need anything for support in the middle? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI did add cleats to the inside part of each storage box and then put slats for mattress support in the center. I think I used about 5. I left the slats removable so they can easily be moved to place totes for out of season clothes in and out. I believe I used 2x2 for each cleat and the slats 1x3 or 1x4.... really doesn't matter what you use though :-). There is no box spring. I will try to find pix with the mattress on, pretty sure I took some
DeleteI'm curious about the box springs too! Thanks : )
ReplyDeleteI did add cleats to the inside part of each storage box and then put slats for mattress support in the center. I think I used about 5. I left the slats removable so they can easily be moved to place totes for out of season clothes in and out. I believe I used 2x2 for each cleat and the slats 1x3 or 1x4.... really doesn't matter what you use though :-). There is no box spring. I will try to find pix with the mattress on, pretty sure I took some
DeleteSo, I'm making this bed - got the headboard and footboard done except for the molding. Would you be willing to share the molding measurements? I can play around it with it, but if you've got them that would be great! I love this bed : )
ReplyDeleteI want to make this for my grandson. Could you tell me how you attached the outside trim to the plywood on the headboard & footboard? Did you router out the trim so the plywood sits flush or are they just attached flat on the front? Thanks!
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How did you go about applying the poly finish to get it as high gloss as you did?
ReplyDeleteRyan,
DeleteAfter staining I applied 2 coats of poly. After the first coat, lightly sanded, and then applied the 2nd coat. Let me know if you have any other questions!
When you built the drawer boxes, did you mount the face on while you had the drawer in the dresser ? I'm trying to understand how you used shims and spacing with the cardboard.
ReplyDeleteYes, while the drawer was in place I used the shims and held the drawer front in place... then held it firm to screw through the back side
DeleteBasic platform beds have four legs and slats across on which the mattress can rest. best platform bed reviews
ReplyDelete